Another Asia Adventure

Sue and I are grateful for your prayers for us as we head back to the place where we lived and served for nearly 9 years.  We'll post updates as we're able--and whenever there's news to be shared.  Here's our itinerary over the next three weeks:

July 17--Fly from LA to Bangkok, via Seoul, Korea.

July 19--Fly from Bangkok to Kunming, China.

July 19-29, in Kunming.  Various meetings with missionaries.

July 29--Fly to Chiang Mai, Thailand.  Staying with Dean and Ada Overholt.  Two days travel to Udon to view proposed ministry site.

August 6--Fly from Chiang Mai to Bangkok.  Overnight in Bangkok, then back to LA on August 7.

Pray that we will have great conversations and great opportunities for ministry all along the way.  We have no greater desire than to serve Him and serve others.

Thanks for your prayers and your encouragement!

Flight 16

It's Friday afternoon in L.A. and Sue and I are now home.  Today we flew from London to LA--our 16th and final flight of our trip.   We arrived in London on Monday afternoon and spent a few days there to unwind, reflect, debrief, and rest up before heading back home.  We took it easy most days, explored museums, walked through the streets, parks and alleyways, and enjoyed the sights of this beautiful city.

Thursday, we took a train out to Cambridge to meet up with a random group of friends who all happened to be in or around London at the same time.  We spent the afternoon punting on the Cam and exploring the town. 

Here we are with Fred and Susan Sanders and their kids, Lisa and Paul Spears and kids, Daryl and Becky Spradley and kids, Philip Massey, and Breanna Holtz.  This was a great way to end our time overseas, slowly reconnecting with friends from church with stories of God's grace in our travels, filling them in our our missionaries, and preparing us to reenter our life back home while still overseas.

Sue and I realize that the past month is still a bit of a blur.  We left on June 22 and arrived home at 1:00 on July 22.  In the past month we've touched down on three continents, traveled through nine countries, visited four missionary families from our church and a whole host of their coworkers, slept two nights on planes and two nights on benches in airports.  We traveled as far south as the equator and spent time in grasslands, desert, and jungles.  We began to realize the vast diversity of cultures on the African continent.  We heard about and saw the devastation of war, famine, and political turmoil.  We heard stories of God's faithfulness in the midst of life-threatening crisis.  We met people who have counted the cost of discipleship and are committed to following Jesus, no matter what. And we have witnessed God's faithfulness in fulfilling His promise to build His church among every tribe, tongue, and people of this earth. 

There is much to reflect on, much to process, and we're continuing to ask God how to steward all we've seen, heard, and experienced.  We're grateful for your constant prayers for us.  All along the way, we have counted it a privilege to serve our God, our missionaries, and our church.  God was faithful at every point, providing all we needed, and more.  Give thanks to Him along with us for His goodness and faithfulness.

Getting Around Africa

Months ago when Sue and I were beginning to put together our itinerary for this trip, Ted Witmer wrote and said, "My goodness, you guys are courageous!"  One evening at a missions committee meeting, one woman who grew up in Africa was praying for us and said to the Lord, "I have no idea how this is going to work out, but You do."

In the past three weeks, we have discovered what these veterans knew all along:  Travel around Africa is complicated.  You simply do not just go from one country to the next or one city to another.  In the past three and a half weeks, we have visited four families in three countries.  That has involved 16 flights in 9 countries, on 4 commercial airlines.  It's also included two flights on a small Cessna aircraft  with Missionary Aviation Fellowship (MAF) between Uganda and Congo.  In Chad, we were qualified to fly on a United Nations sponsored flight across the country from N'Djamena to Abeche and then on to Guereda.  These flights are free to humanitarian workers.

 

   (Guereda International Airport)

In N'Djamena we traveled in the city in a public taxi--a small van crammed with 27 people.  In Guinea, we drove from Conakry to Hamdallye in the Altmillers 20 year old Toyota Land Cruiser packed with 9 people, luggage and supplies for the next several months.  In each of the countries, paved roads are scarce, travel is slow, and vehicles are generally heavy duty, four wheel drive.

Today we're on the road again, traveling back to Conakry to prepare for our early Monday morning departure from Guinea to London, via Casablanca, Morocco.  No foreigners are allowed out on the roads after midnight, so we plan to spend the night in the airport in order to be ready for our 4:50 a.m. flight.

We'll likely be out of touch for the next few days, until we arrive at our hotel in London on Monday afternoon.  Thanks for your continued prayers for us, for safety as we travel, for lots of time to talk, pray, and debrief after such an amazing journey.  God has been faithful all along the way and we are grateful for His provision and His strength.

Chad Photos

 Margit's home, coming in from the front gate.

 Margit and friends.

Bringing water in from the wadi.

Tom and Sue looking very Chadian.

In Guinea at Last!

It's Wednesday evening and Sue and I have been in Guinea with Kris and Ruth Altmiller for the past 24 hours.  Tuesday was a long travel day, flying from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, through Lome, Togo, on to Bamako, Mali, and finally landing in Conakry, Guinea, around 7:15 in the evening.  We were expecting the Mali connection, but Togo came as a bit of a surprise as we were boarding the plane. 

As we flew in, Conakry impressed us as being the most dramatic entrance into a city so far on our trip.  Straight out our window was a blazing sunset amidst some of the most amazing cloud formations we've ever seen while down below us was emerald green tropical landscape, steep mountains dropping down to ocean, and the lights of the city stretching on for miles.  The scene was breathtaking.

When we landed, we were greatly impressed in a very different way.  Walking through immigration and customs was a bit of a treacherous minefield.  Immigration was no problem.  After that, a woman was standing in the middle of the walk way asking for our yellow card proving we'd had our yellow fever vaccinations.  We produced them.  She motioned for us to step over to the woman in a small booth.  We went over and the lady asked us something in French.  We told her we didn't speak French, only English.  We assumed she didn't speak Chinese, so didn't even try that.  She asked how much money we were bringing into the country.  We told her.  She didn't seem to understand and asked us to step into the booth.  That seemed strange, but she was wearing a uniform and seemed official.  We complied.  She wanted to see all our money.  I opened my wallet and pulled out about $40US.  She didn't seem impressed.  Finally she said, "Give me some of that."  I asked why.  She only said, "You must give me some money."  Again, I asked for what reason.  She only kept saying, "You must give me money."  Then she spoke in French.  I told her we only spoke English and didn't intend to give her any money.  She finally got tired of us and sent us away.

In the next room we collected our baggage.  As we were walking toward the door, three ladies in uniform were standing behind a table.  A worker in the baggage hall checked our claim tickets and baggage tags and told us to go over to these "customs officials."  Again, we complied.  Never argue with uniformed officers in a foreign airport.  This instruction had been drilled into us over our years of missionary work and foreign travel.  One lady told me to put my suitcase up on the table.  I did.  I expected her to ask me to open it so she could look through.  She didn't.  She only said, "Give me money."  I asked her why.  "You must give me money."  Again, I asked for what reason.  I told her I'd be happy to open the bag.  She looked disappointed and started speaking French.  I told her I didn't speak French.  After a few minutes a couple of other "officers" joined in and yelled at us in French.  All of them wanted money.  They saw they were getting nowhere with us and finally told us to get out of there.  Gladly!

Outside, we were barraged by more people who wanted to carry our bags, get us a taxi, and generally yell at us for not paying the "customs officers."  By the time we met up with Kris just after we had run the gauntlet, we were so glad to finally see a friendly face . . . someone who wasn't going to say, "You must give me money!"

Today we learned that Guinea has been classified as the fourth most corrupt country in the world.  If our experience in the airport is any indication, I believe it.

This morning we left Conakry for Altmiller's home in Hamdallaye.  The drive was beautiful--lush green and tropical.  We passed thatched roofed homes in small villages.  Mangoes, coconuts, cashews, and countless other tropical flowers and plants cover the hilly and sometimes mountainous terrain.  Altmillers Toyota Land Cruiser was packed full of supplies Which they can only get in Conakry.  Like four, 50 kilo sacks of flour (that's about 110 pounds each!), luggage for 9 people, lots of other food and water.  We were pretty well wedged in to our spots for the 7 hour drive on some smooth road and some very bumpy and rough road. 

Long rides make for plenty of good conversation, and today was no exception.  Lots of catching up along the way.  Now that we're here on the mission compound, we're comfortably settled into our guest accommodations and look forward to the next few days of seeing their life, their work, and meeting some of their coworkers. 

A more personal request here, Sue and I have realized that this trip is a marathon and not a sprint.  We left home 3 weeks ago today and there are moments we feel the physical, emotional, and spiritual demands of a trip like this.  We've loved it . . . but long days of travel can be a bit tiring.  Pray for continued strength and stamina.  We long for good conversations with Kris and Ruth, lots of time to listen and opportunities to bring encouragement and counsel as needed.  Continue to pray for us.

Life in Chad

Sue and I have been here in Chad since Saturday. We spent the first few days in N'Djamena with Margit, running errands, going shopping, visiting friends, and getting a sense of the capital city. It's a fascinating blend of Arab in the north and black African in the south. Both French and Arabic are widely spoken. We stayed in a missionary guest house, which gave us a great feel for the missionary community not only in N'Djamena but a number of missionaries working throughout Chad.

On Wednesday we flew from N'Djamena, which sits on the border in the far west of Chad, near Cameroon, to Abeche, which is in the far east toward Sudan. There we caught another plane to Guereda, just northeast of Abeche, approximately 30 kilometers from the Sudan border. This arid, sub Sahara region is filled with refugees from Sudan, as well as a number of Arabic people groups who've settled in this area. The terrain reminds us of the desert region near Palm Springs . . . but obviously not at all developed.

Guereda is a town of mud brick courtyard homes, sandy “streets,” and scrubby trees and plants. There are dry river beds waiting for the rains to come and fill them with water. Arab men in flowing caftans and white turbans stroll around and lounge on straw mats in front of shops. The women are fully wrapped in colorful lafais. Children run through the streets and play with old tires and homemade tin cars which they pull through the dirt.

Margit's home is a typical Chadian courtyard house, which she has made very comfortable and welcoming. Two rooms on each side of a covered area, which is shaded and cool in the breeze. This is where most Chadians will spend the warm hours of the day. One one side is her bedroom and on the other is her kitchen and eating area.

We've spent these past two days walking around the area, meeting her friends and neighbors, and getting to know her coworkers.

The weather is warm and dry. As we were walking through the town today, I asked Margit if the clouds overhead had any rain in them today. She says she's given up hope of seeing any rain. It's just dry and dusty.

We've loved getting to know Margit's coworkers. She's blessed to have such a team. Sue and I are impressed with their deep commitment to their people and to this area. Because of so many refugees and the difficulties in Darfur, which is just across the border, this is a region that is often in the news these days. The UN forces and other NGOs are here to pass out food and set up refugee camps.

Margit and her team are building friendships with local men and women to share the gospel and bring light to a dark region. Sue and I feel greatly privileged to be here, to experience life in such a harsh region, and meet brothers and sisters who are fulfilling a calling to take the gospel to the ends of the earth.

The Addis Ababa Airport Story

While we have a bit of time (and a better than usual internet connection) we'll take the opportunity to tell the full Addis airport story.

Early Saturday morning we flew from Entebbe, Uganda, to N'Djamena, Chad, via Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. We were in the airport about 3 hours or so waiting for our flight. While sitting in a very crowded waiting area, I needed to go to the restroom. After I came back, Sue said, “Well, you just missed quite a sight.” “What?” I asked. She pointed to a man nearby who was standing in the area. “That man there took off all his clothes and just sat there in the middle of the crowd.” “No, he didn't,” I responded. “Yes, actually he did. And everyone started yelling at him, so he put his clothes back on.”

As we sat there, the man walked up to the front of the waiting room, crowded with several hundred people. On the other side of a glass wall was a security area where a long line of people were waiting to come through. As he stood there, every eye in the place was looking his direction. He then took off his belt and laid it on the floor. After a minute, he removed his shirt, folded it up and laid it on the floor. He stood for a moment with his arms crossed across his chest. No one said a word. Then he unbuttoned his pants and stepped out of them, folded them up and laid them on the floor. For a minute, he stood there in his very colorful boxers and dress shoes. Then he pulled down the boxers, put his shoes back on and stood there stark naked talking to the crowd. Sue and I had no idea what he was saying. Was he protesting? Making a statement? We had no idea. The men in the crowd were yelling at him, but no one did anything at all. Finally, after several minutes, a few airport personnel approached him and seemed to be asking him to get dressed. He didn't. They finally led him away, stark naked, through the doorway marked Gate 3, leaving his clothes sitting in a pile on the floor. Someone finally came along and picked up the clothes and carried them off.

Less than an hour later, Sue and I boarded our plane headed for N'Djamena. Seated next to me was a very pleasant young Chadian man named Nodji. He was returning home for the first time in 7 years. We sat and talked about all kinds of things—his studies in America, his family in Chad, and, of course, I had all kinds of questions about Chad. Feeling very comfortable with his openness and friendly manner, I asked, “So did you see the man in the airport in Addis?” “You mean, the one who took off his clothes?” he replied.

“Yes, that's the one,” I answered.

“Not only I see him, I videoed him.”

“No, you didn't!”

“Yes, actually I did. Would you like me to email you a copy?” He asked.

“No. I didn't want to see it the first time. Why in the world would I want to see it again!?”

I thought about it for a few minutes and realized there were probably a few people back home who'd never believe the story. So I gave Nodji my email address and said, “Sure, send me a copy.” We haven't seen it yet, but if his internet connection is anything like ours, he hasn't been able to send any videos. We'll see if it comes.

He said when he sends it, the subject line will be “Welcome to Ethiopia.” Welcome indeed.